Little Known Kyoto: - The Gate Known as Rajomon / Rashomon

The Emperor Kammu created his new capital, Heian-Kyo (Kyoto) in 784 AD, and styled it on the rectangular Chinese city design. Rashomon was the name of the great southern gate that traversed the southern boundary of the central street (Suzaku Avenue) - the street that led directly to the Nijo, the Imperial Palace (Rashomon means literally "castle gate"). The gate was larger than the nandaimon at Nara's Todaiji temple. With its brilliant painted and tiled décor, it was one of the two most spectacular gates of the city (together with the suzakumon at the Imperial Palace).

In Tales of Old Japan Mitford tells the story of Shudendoji, the "demon of Rasho gate" who was sorely troubling the men of Kyoto by carrying off all the most beautiful maidens. The hero Yorimitsu (948-1021) eventually put an end to this nonsense, and returned to the Emperor with the head of the monster. The fame of his action "was spread abroad under heaven."

Although they were roughly contemporary with Yorimitsu, the great writers of the Heian era such as Sei Shonagon and Murasaki Shikibu made no reference to the gate, which (according to some historians) suggests that it may already have disappeared by the 11th century. Neither, for that matter, is it mentioned in the 12th century Heike Monogatari.

The stone itself is just inscribed "Rashomon Commemorative Stone", and the following is my translation of the information notice adjacent to the stone.

Rashomon Commemorative Stone At this spot in ancient Heian Kyo [Kyoto], the main street (Suzaku) passed through the city centre (in the position of the current Senbon Street) to intersect with Kujo Street. Rashomon was built to be a frontage for Heian Kyo. From its second level, the gate had a tiled roof with a ridge of shining golden goose tales. It was 10 jo and 6 shaku* in width (about 32 metres) with a depth of 2 jo 6 shaku* (about 8 metres). Externally there was a stone staircase with five steps, outside of which was a stone bridge. At New Year of the third year of Kanko (1107), having subdued Minamoto Yoshichika in the Sanin area [northern Okayama prefecture], Taira Masamori was welcomed by the wealthy citizens with impressive pomp and show, from this gate into the city. At this time the gate was a triumphal arch, as well as the main entrance of Heian Kyo. However, in the latter part of the Heian period, Ukyou [ward] fell into decline, and society into disorder. The gate became a ruin, and thieves took up residence in the neighbourhood, giving rise to many myths. ... * A jo is a unit of length of about 3 metres, and a shaku is about 30 cm.

The notice goes on to say that this was the setting for a world famous story by Japanese writer Akutagawa Ryunosuke (1892-1927), Rashomon. Kurosawa Akira made a noted film in 1951 with the same name and setting, but this was mainly based on another of Akutagawa's stories- In an Grove.

The original gate disappeared centuries ago. This commemorative stone can be found just near the 'Rashomon' bus stop on Kujo Street, near the junction with Senbon Street.

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